Taiwan | The History & Cultural Influence of Tea

Tea from Taiwan is exceptionally delicious and its origin story is fascinating. The tea industry in Taiwan is heavily influenced by China, Japanese investors, and British tea traders. The result of these three influences is a unique tea culture with innovative tea varieties. Taiwanese teas, especially their oolong and black teas, are gaining immense popularity abroad, and domestically, tea has become an integral part of everyday life. Despite its rapid growth, Taiwan’s tea industry is still relatively new compared to that of other countries like China. So, how exactly has the island of Taiwan gone from a local provider to a significant distributor in the global tea industry?

Taiwanese Tea's History & Geography

Portuguese explorers were the first to discover Taiwan in 1542 and originally named it Ihla Formosa. In 1623, the Dutch East India Company (DEIC) was granted sovereignty over Taiwan and began using the island as a trading base with China and Japan. Once the DEIC discovered Taiwan’s valuable resources of sugar, rice, and deer hides, they built forts to protect their trading interests. The Dutch improved Taiwan’s infrastructure and boosted its economy by establishing tax systems, building schools and churches, and instituting rules and regulations.

During this time, the DEIC employed many Chinese immigrants to farm the rice and sugar cane, and this is where tea first made its grand entrance onto the scene of Taiwan. It was a quiet entrance at first, with Chinese traders visiting from the Fujian province being the first to bring Chinese tea to Taiwan. While wild tea was found growing in Taiwan’s central mountain region, tea cultivation did not begin until the 19th century, when seeds from China were harvested in northern Taiwan.

Due to China’s foreign trade restrictions, the tea grown in Taiwan was initially only used for trading with China or local consumption. But after these restrictions were annulled in 1842, multiple ports were opened in China and Taiwan for foreign trade, paving the way for many new trading endeavors, including the establishment of their tea industry.

In 1860, a Scotsman named John Dodd saw the potential of selling Taiwanese tea commercially and increased their tea production by providing loans to farmers. With the help of Dodd and Company, shipments of tea were exported to England and New York, and Formosa Oolong tea (the Taiwanese specialty) became a well-loved brew in the USA. These sales and positive reviews elevated the prestige of Taiwanese tea, and many other exporters were encouraged to set up their own shops. By 1885, tea exports increased from 180,000 pounds to more than 16 million pounds, and by the end of the 19th century, tea was Taiwan’s dominant export.

In 1926, the Tea Research Institute of Taiwan was founded, with its sole purpose being to expand tea production and cultivate innovative tea varietals that could flourish in Taiwan. Many of the varietals they helped produce are still prominent to this day. With the help of international fairs, Taiwanese tea became advocated world-wide. The major countries receiving their tea exports included the United States, Britain, Japan, Hong Kong, and Russia. The upsurge of Taiwan’s tea industry and consumption closely coincided with the advancement of their economy in the 1980s.

With international encouragement of their tea, Taiwan’s tea industry was transformed from a commercial, world-wide export to a domestic, everyday activity. They shifted their focus from trading to internal consumption. Today, it can be challenging to find authentic, high-quality Taiwanese teas outside of Taiwan.

Production & Types of Tea from Taiwan

Currently, there are around 20,000 hectares of tea farms in Taiwan producing about 20,000 tons of tea every year. There are multiple tea varieties, or cultivars, grown throughout Taiwan. Each type has its own unique qualities and characteristics that create a diverse array of flavors and aromas. The most common tea cultivars in Taiwan include Paochong, Oolong, Pomfong, Tieh-Kuan-Yin, and other forms of black and green tea.

In 1968, a new program was established, re-named the Tea Research and Extension Station (TRES) in 2003, to educate the public about proper tea cultivation. They educate farmers on proper tea harvesting methods, as well as best practices when it comes to water and soil conservation. The TRES developed a slope land conservation tea farm, to provide a setting for teaching and demonstrating its conservation methods.

Recently, Taiwan has championed organic practices and sustainability when it comes to tea farming. Organic farmers now have to be chemical-free when it comes to their fertilizers and pesticides, replacing them with organic fertilizers and non-pesticide, biological control methods to diminish pests and diseases.

Taiwan’s ideal tropical climate enables them to produce some truly phenomenal tea. Their location within a subtropic zone, mountainous terrain, and combination of cool, moist air and fertile, volcanic soil all provide the perfect environment for growing tea with their one-of-kind flavor and aroma.

Additionally, Taiwan has worked hard to match their rich natural resources with evolving processing methods. Due to its versatile terrain, it produces a variety of local specialties. One of their most famous teas is Gaoshan (“high mountain”) oolongs. Initially, the only teas grown in Taiwan were Oolong teas. As their tea market expanded and production increased, they began cultivating green and black tea to meet their consumers’ demands. To this day, Oolong and Paochong tea are the most beloved world-wide and are synonymous with Taiwanese tea.

Taiwan emphasizes quality over quantity, and that indeed shows in the tea they provide. Tea is more than a beverage; it is part of the social fabric of Taiwan. The art of drinking tea plays a significant role in their daily life. A famous Taiwanese phrase is, “You have friends, and you have tea – so you’re rich!” It’s a helpful reminder that all you need is your loved ones and a delicious cup of tea to be truly rich.